SIG Riser

47,99 CAD $


Sailplanes are an easy and relaxing way to learn and enjoy radio control flying. To fly them well, however, takes a lot of skill and knowledge about the air in which they fly. The RISER was designed with the beginner and sport flier in mind to create a "floater" that's docile and predictable in flight. The RISER'S gentle handling characteristics doesn't mean it lacks performance. Experts will find the RISER is capable of holding its own in two-meter sailplane competition.

The versatile RISER can even make a good R/C trainer! Many model clubs around the country like to train student pilots on a sailplane because of their gentle and slow speed flying characteristics. The slow speed allows the beginner ample time to develop the skills that are necessary for flying radio controlled models. If you have never flown an R/C model before, we strongly recommend that you obtain the assistance of a skilled R/C pilot before attempting to fly your Riser for the first time.

Instructions for installing the optional wing spoilers are included with the kit on a separate sheet. Spoilers are essential for making consistent spot landings and for other multi-task soaring events. Since they aren't necessary for everyday fun flying, the materials for adding spoilers to your RISER are not included in the kit.

Notes Before Beginning Construction

Any references to right or left refers to your right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit.

To build good flying models, you need a good straight building board. Crooked models don't fly well! The building board can be a table, a workbench, a reject "door core" from the lumber yard, or whatever - as long as it is perfectly flat and untwisted. Cover the top surface of the building board with a piece of celotex-type wall board or foam board, into which pins can be easily pushed. Don't hesitate to use plenty of pins during assembly to hold drying parts in correct position.

When pinning and gluing parts directly over the full-size plans, cover the plan with wax paper or plastic kitchen wrap to prevent gluing the parts to the plans.


Don't use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these ink marks will show through the model's final finish. Use a pencil instead of a pen.

Identifying Kit Parts

Leave all die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Then remove the pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is encountered, do not force the part from the sheet - use a modeling knife to cut it free.

The die-cut balsa wing ribs are identified below. The die-cut plywood parts can be identified using the plans and the "KEY TO PLYWOOD FORMERS". Mark the identification numbers on the corresponding parts before removing them from the die-cut sheets.

All of the other parts can be identified by the "COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST". Sort the different sizes of sticks and sheets into individual piles to avoid confusion during building. Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any full length strips into short pieces.
NOTE: Save any scrap balsa and plywood until the model is completely done. Some of it may be called for during construction.

Die-Cut Balsa
2 1/16"x3"x18" Inboard Wing Panel Ribs, W-1 & W-1A 2 1/16"x3"x12" Outboard Wing Panel Ribs, W-2 thru W-8
Silkscreened Balsa
1 3/32"x5"x36" SHEET NO.1; Fuselage Sides 1 3/16"x3"x18" SHEET NO.2; Tail Parts
Sheet Balsa
8 1/16"x1"x20" Leading Edge Sheeting 1 1/16"x3"x36" Wing Center Sheeting, Shear Webs 1 3/32"x3"x36" Fuselage Sheeting, Top and Bottom 1 1/4"x2-1/4"x8" Fuselage Top Block and Hatch
Stick Balsa
14 1/16"x3/16"x36" Capstrips 3 1/8"x3/16"x36" Diagonal Ribs for Tail, Fuselage Stiffeners 3 3/16"x1/4"x36" Stabilizer, Elevator, Fin and Rudder Frames 1 1/4" Triangle x12" Fuselage Longerons
3 1/4" Triangle x36" Fuselage Longerons
Special Shaped Balsa
4 1/4"x1"x20" Trailing Edge Stock 4 3/8"x20" Shaped Leading Edge
Block Balsa
2 3/4"x1"x 6" Wingtips 1 1-1/2"x2"x2-1/2"; Nose Block
1 1/4"x3/4"x1" Basswood - Notched Towhook Block 2 5/32" dia. x3" Birch Dowels - Wing Hold-down Dowels
4 1/8"x1/4"x18" Outboard Wing Spars, Top and Bottom 4 3/16"x1/4"x 20" Inboard Wing Spars, Top and Bottom 1 3/16" sq. x4" Elevator Joiner
Die-Cut Plywood
2 1/32"x4-1/2"x9-1/2" Fuselage Doublers FDF, FDR 1 3/32"x2-3/8"x11" Dihedral Brace 1 1/8"x4-1/2"x6" Fuselage Formers, Towhook Base
6 Easy Hinges 2 Small Molded Nylon Control Horns (for elevator and rudder) 5 #2 x1/2" Sheet Metal Screws (for control horns & hatch hold-down) 2 2-56 R/C Links (clevises)
4 2-56 x10" Threaded Rods 2 .190" o.d.x20" Outer Nylon Pushrod Tubing 2 .130" o.d.x24" Inner Nylon Pushrod Tubing
Miscellaneous Parts
1 3/32" dia.x1-7/8" Formed Wire Towhook 1 38"x50" Full-Size Printed Plan 1 28 Page Instruction Booklet 1 3"x4-1/2" Decal

About The Building Sequence

The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is drying on one section, you can start on or proceed with another part. Work can even go forward on several sections of the same assembly at the same time, such as the front and rear sections of the fuselage.


Keep in mind that the numbering sequence used in these instructions was chosen as the best way to explain the building of each major component and is not intended to be followed in exact one-two-three fashion. Start on the wing at NO.1 and after doing as many steps as is convenient, flip over to "FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION" and do a step or two there, then over to "TAIL SURFACECONSTRUCTION" and so forth. You will, of course, arrive at points where you can go no farther until another component is available. Plan ahead! Read the instructions completely and study the full size plans before beginning construction.

Radio Equipment Requirements

The RISER requires only elevator and rudder control, so any radio with two or more channels may be used. If you plan to use spoilers, a radio with at least three channels is required. Be certain that your radio system's frequency is approved for use in R/C model aircraft. Using a frequency assigned to R/C surface vehicles (cars, boats) not only endangers your model to interference from model car or boat drivers (who may not even be in sight), it is also against the law.


There are so many different glues available today for model construction that it can be confusing even for the experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most glues can be classified as one of four basic types:
  1. Fast cyanoacrylate adhesives (abbreviated in these instructions as "CA") such as SIG CA, Hot Stuff, Jet, etc ...
  2. Easy-to-use water-based glues such as SIG-BOND (yellow) and SIG SUPER-WELD (white).
  3. Super strong (but heavier) two-part epoxy glues such as SIG KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure).
  4. Traditional solvent-based model cements such as SIG-MENT.
Each of these types has different characteristics and advantages. Often times, the choice of which type to use is strictly a matter of personal preference based on your prior experience with a previous model. Some of the steps in these instructions call out the type of glue to use for that particular assembly. In other areas you can use your own judgement as to which type is best suited to the purpose and to your building schedule.

For general construction of the RISER, we recommend that you use cyanoacrylate adhesives. These adhesives have become very popular with modelers because of their fast drying times. With CA, you can virtually build a structure from start to finish without having to wait for the glue to dry. Most brands, including SIG CA, come in three different viscosities: thin, medium, and thick.
  • Thin CA has a watery consistency and uses capillary action to penetrate and soak into a joint. Since it is so thin and dries so quickly, the parts to be joined must be in firm contact with each other before application of the glue. Use thin CA for the initial assembly of balsa parts over the plans.
  • Medium viscosity CA (SIG CA PLUS) can also be used for initial assembly in the same manner as the thin, but it takes a little longer to dry. Joints made initially with thin CA should be reglued with medium CA for additional strength. Medium CA should also be used when gluing plywood, spruce, or hardwoods.
  • Thick CA (SIG CA SLOW) dries slowly enough that it allows you to apply the glue to the parts before assembling and gives you time to reposition the parts if necessary. Thick CA is good for gluing doublers to fuselages and forming fillets in high stress areas.
The drying time for all CA's can be speeded up by spraying an accelerator (such as SIG KWIK-SHOT) right on the joint.
SIG-BOND is handy for gluing things such as wing leading edge sheeting or center sheeting where you need to apply glue to several parts in one operation. You should also have on hand some epoxy glue, both 5-minute and slow dry, for areas subject to high stress or joints involving metal parts.


Plus d’information
Numéro distributeur N/A
Pays USA
Marque SIG